Studying Suit Patterns

A hobby that I've picked up during the pandemic is collecting vintage patterns. (I've also started a database of all the patterns I've seen, their prices, and some other attributes in order to predict pricing trends, but that project is probably outside the scope of this blog.) I'm interested primarily in Vogue designer suit patterns from about 1950 - 1980, although I've started expanding into the 1990s.

I started collecting these patterns after reading an article about how Vogue launched its Paris Original Model patterns in 1949 as patterns made directly from designer garments. I was curious how those patterns might differ from more standardized pattern forms (if at all!).

My first acquisition was Vogue Paris Original 1472 which is a 1959 design from Christian Dior designed by a young Yves Saint Laurent.

It was part of the first collection of Dior patterns licensed by Vogue. There were 3 patterns: 1470, 1471, and 1472. Two of them of them were introduced in the January 1960 issue of Vogue.

All 3 patterns appeared in the January 1960 issue of Ladies' Home Journal.

The patterns look like they come from the collection detailed first in the September 1, 1959 Vogue article reporting on the Paris collections and then further described in the September 15, 1959 Vogue article about pieces already available in the US.

For a much longer and more in-depth exploration of all of YSL's Dior patterns for Vogue, see this excellent article on Pattern Vault.

Vogue Paris Original 1472 consists of pattern pieces and instructions to make a coat, scarf, skirt, and jacket. The slim skirt is interesting. The pattern consists of only 3 main pieces - a front panel and two back panels - and closes with short zippers on both of the back side seams. In the book Christian Dior: History & Modernity, there is a skirt (part of a day suit from the A/W 1952-3 collection) which closes this way - although it also has a deep back pleat which this pattern lacks.

The pattern instructions are very brief compared to many modern patterns. The skirt only gets the very corner of an instruction page and 11 steps.

The double breasted suit jacket is nice, but the coat boasts more details. It is fully lined and interlined with welt buttonholes and a fair amount of decorative top stitching. The description of the method for welt buttonholes (something many sewists find difficult) is delightfully short.

Someday I would like to make this pattern. Unfortunately, the copy I bought is several sizes too small for me - so re-sizing and making this is pretty low on my list. For now, it sits on my sewing space wall inspiring me while I work.