My adventures in sewing knits continue!
The Charm Patterns Hepburn Top is simple top pattern intended for knits with 10-25% stretch with 4 neckline variations (round, v-neck, band collar with optional back bow, and pussy bow) and 5 sleeve variations (sleeveless, short, three quarter, long, and bishop). It comes in sizes 2-20 (size 20 - high bust: 47", waist: 41", hips: 54") with A-H cup sizing.
I made three versions of the top (covering most of the possible variations) out of three very different fabrics (all from Emma One Sock). In all three I made a size 10H (but I probably should have sized up for the last one).
The first shirt is made from a brick heather rayon jersey that has been languishing in my stash. It is light, drapey, and has a lot of stretch in both directions.
This was my first time sewing with this kind of knit and I struggled in places not to stretch it as I sewed. (I did not always succeed, but all of my errors are hidden when wearing the shirt.)
The bow on the back hides a multitude of sins.
The pattern itself is quite straightforward with only two darts and up to 4 major seams (center back, center front for the v-neck, and the side seams). The sleeves (with the exception of the bishop sleeves) are cut in one with the body of the shirt. For most variations the neck, sleeves, and hem can be finished simply by turning under and top stitching.
I chose to make a shirt with short sleeves, the band collar, and back bow. It is extremely comfortable and goes really well with my pencil skirt. (Pattern also from Charm Patterns.)
Buoyed by my success, I made a second version from a black rayon ponte. It is substantial, but still has significant stretch.
I chose to make a very versatile v-neck top with three quarter sleeves.
This was much easier to sew with than the jersey. Despite having a similar stretch percentage, the thickness of the fabric makes it easier to handle. It also is less clingy when worn and has a more modern look. I've already worn this several times, since it goes with everything and is very comfortable (especially layered underneath sweaters and plaid shirts).
Finally, I made a version of the shirt from a white stretch crepe. This is more of a woven than a knit and only has the minimum amount of recommended stretch (10%).
I made the version of the pattern which Gertie wears on the cover of the pattern envelope with the pussy bow and the bishop sleeves.
I doubt this will get a lot of wear until I make a vest or a jumper designed to accommodate those sleeves. The crepe itself is pretty close to opaque, but I should have sized up in the body to wear it alone. (This is a lesson for me on the stretch requirement in a pattern versus the optimal stretch for the wearing ease you want.)
This fabric was easy to sew, since I am used to working with wovens, but unraveled the way a knit wouldn't (for safety I serged ALL the edges). The pussy bow is easy to apply to the v-neck and because they are set into a dropped shoulder, the bishop sleeves are simple to assemble as well. This version didn't take much longer than the very simple black one.
Overall, I feel like this has opened a whole new world of very versatile separates. The band collar and pussy bow variations have a very retro look, but the round and v-neck versions take on the look of whatever fabric is used. This is such a quick sew and can be eked out of not much fabric (with the exception of the bishop sleeves). I see a lot more of these in my future.