When I originally planned my fall/winter capsule wardrobe, I grouped it into 5 ensembles. The second outfit was completed at the end of November. And now, I've finished the fifth. As a reminder, the fifth outfit was this silk blouse and plaid pencil skirt.
I started with the skirt. I purchased the Charm Patterns Stanwyck skirt pattern in the fall of 2020 with the intention of making the circle skirt view, but it never happened. Instead, I became enamored with the pencil skirt view with shaped pockets for which I had just enough of this wool suiting from Emma One Sock in my stash.
Because I'd successfully made the Charm Patterns Lucille trousers without major alterations, I didn't make a toile.
That was my first mistake.
In the size chart I am essentially a size 10, but I didn't want the skirt to be too tight over my belly and hips and cut a 12.
This was my second mistake.
I constructed the inner stay and pockets and basted the front and back together only to find it was comically large. It looked like I had wings over my hips. After a break, I took the skirt apart, cut it down to a 10 the best I could, and then re-assembled it. It fit better, but there are some lingering issues I'll fix if I make this pattern again.
I might make it again despite my dislike of making the same thing twice. This pattern is full of nice details - inside stay, top stitched pockets, back kick pleat, and lapped zipper. I emphasized all my details with bright red stitching.
When I made my sketch, I wanted to use the top from How to Do Fashion's No. 7 Vanløse pattern. As it came time to make it, however, I started to think I might prefer a simpler tank. I toiled several and realized none of them were the right shape to tuck into a high waistband without bulk. When I belatedly toiled the No. 7, it was a clear winner.
My previous make from How to Do Fashion, No. 00 Danmark, required a small FBA - but I felt I could get away without one on this blouse since the top front is cut on the bias. If I make it again (and I probably will - because I love the shoulder pleats) I'll do a small FBA to lower the front seam line and give myself a little more ease.
The fabric for this blouse was this gorgeous crepe de chine from Emma One Sock.
This fabric is a little bit translucent, so I decided to partially line the blouse with a white cotton/silk lawn from my stash. To do this, I constructed the lining and main blouse separately until it was time to sew up the side seams, then sewed them together at the neckline and sleeves, and finally flipped them out and sewed the side and back seams separately. I have seen this method before, but for this I followed the steps for the Kersoe top in Jenny Rushmore's Ahead of the Curve.
The silk wasn't slippery, but it was delicate so I did a lot of hand sewing. I understitched the neckline by hand, I hand overcast all the inside seams, and I did a hand rolled hem.
The only closure on this blouse is a back slit with a button and loop closure. As a hidden detail, I used this darling heart button.
I'm very proud of this ensemble even though I can see all the things I would do differently net time based on what I learned along the way.
And both pieces mix well with the pieces from outfit #2.
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